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When sommelier Erica Hay opened the UK’s first independent sake bar in London’s West End in 2019, passers-by wandered in trying to order milkshakes, confused by the unfamiliar drink advertised in the window.
“Today, that confusion is largely gone,” said Hay, who has since opened Mai Sake, a shop offering tasting events and meals. “Now you can go round sake bars around London and you’ll find it on the drinks lists of many restaurants – including places outside of Japan.”
The Japanese fermented rice drink, usually around 15% ABV, is becoming increasingly important at international beverage market. Exports have grown almost every year for the past 13 years, and the export market in 2023 is 1.8 times that of 2019, with sales reaching ¥41.1bn (£211m).
China and the US are the biggest sake consumers, but the UK market is growing. Sake is no longer only drunk for courage in karaoke clubs, but is sold in specialty shops and sophisticated bars. Waitrose reported that searches for sake on its website were up 241% year-on-year, while searches for plum sake were also up 100% from 2023. Even Wagamama – one of the first restaurants to offer the drink nationwide side – just added sparkling sake to his list.
Berry Bros & Rudd, the UK’s oldest wine merchant, has started selling sake ‘en primeur’, a method favored by collectors – an opportunity to buy wine before it is bottled and usually at a good price. The practice started in Bordeaux and is associated with French and Italian vintages, so to see sake offered for sale in this way shows a big change in perception in the UK.
“We are seeing a growing interest in our sake offering and wanted to add something exciting for our customers,” said Rob Whitehead, spirits buyer at Berry Bros & Rudd. “It’s a unique product that speaks to seasoned wine collectors – those who understand that patience is key in collecting – and to newcomers.” The company sold twice as much sake by value last year as in the previous three financial years . Whitehead said that while their loyal customers are becoming more adventurous and investing in sake, they are also seeing entirely new buyers.
Hei grew up in Japan – she’s Canadian and Japanese – but only really came to appreciate her native country after leaving it. She trained as a sommelier and began making connections with traditional breweries in Japan. Hay said the rise of sake was largely due to the hard work of industry insiders over the past decade, but there had also been a surge in interest in Japanese culture and cuisine in the UK.
This is evident at every price point: Tesco sold 21 million packs of sushi in its dining deal in 2023, while luxury omakase restaurants have also gained popularity, particularly in London. Omakase means “I’ll leave it up to you” and these restaurants specialize in unique set menus devised by the chef. Overall, the Japanese cuisine market in the UK has risen from £797m in 2017 to £1.2bn in 2023.
With the simultaneous trends for artisanal food production and natural ingredients, sake meets many requirements. “Premium sake does not contain preservatives, tannins or sulfites, which appeals to this newfound consumer consciousness,” Hay said. “In addition, the industry supports small artisan producers and preserves a tradition of sake-making that spans more than 2,000 years.”
This year, Japan’s application to add traditional sake brewing to UNESCO’s Intangible Cultural Heritage list is being considered.
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The UK also seems to be showing a growing interest in other Asian spirits and drinks. Shochu is a spirit now regularly featured as a cocktail ingredient in British bars, made from grains such as rice and barley, as well as sweet potatoes and molasses. Baijiu, a potent traditional Chinese drink made from fermented sorghum, is actually the world’s best-selling spirit and has finally been discovered by British drinkers.
Whitehead says sake’s growing popularity is partly down to it being “one of the most food-friendly drinks on the market.” At events hosted by Hague, they pair sake with everything from pizza to Michelin-starred main courses. She recommends that the curious snack on the drink by trying it with food.
“Pair sake with familiar foods so the experience is less intimidating. Swap the white wine at your alfresco lunch for a fresh and fruity sake served chilled in a white wine glass, or replace the pint of Guinness at your steak dinner with a spicy and strong sake served closer to room temperature.”
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